Видео

Yep

Yes. No Calgon not important

surprising isn’t it!

It sounds like you did have it working and now it’s stopped again, which would imply a problem with either your wires or fuse, which I see you have checked. Have you definitely done a double unlock on the fob remote? It won’t work unless all door are unlocked. If non of those then you have to get to the solenoid in the lock to check - that is the awkward inside job of removing the rear door cover. Not something I have had to do, yet.

@@comeinhandynow yeah checked everything and your video worked great bought the button and it started working then i just stopped and like when the wire touch nothing soo ill have to take door off i think ...

Watch the video! It’s at time 33:24

What a 20L watering can!? Could bearly lift it! lol. You need to kill weeds before jet washing as jet washing alone will just take the top of the weeds off, if you’re lucky. It will also spread the seeds. Bleach will kill the plant and the seeds.

Cheers

Thank you

I don’t believe anything was left out and it worked correctly afterwards, please explain what part you believe is the problem. Yes grate a bit close, but not exactly dangerous, it is only 3’ deep and easily accessed.

@@comeinhandynow look at the video. u left the pin that goes in the slot out. I could see it on the table in some shots. With out it torque could change. Correct me if I'm wrong.

@@comeinhandynow I drop and lose parts often.

@@TedOption The pin that goes in the slot at time 9:29? No parts were left over so it was all assembled.

@@TedOption It can happen, “you live and learn”.

Well done. The k-series is a better engine than many people believe. It was awarded a ‘design centre’ award and uses some good principles like the oil pump driven directly by the crank. The original elastomer head gaskets can fail by the elastomer moving so the ‘N series’ gasket is better if installed well and that is the key.

@@comeinhandynow Thanks for the reply and yes I had heard that the steel gasket was the better one. However, when deciding what one to use I asked the chap at 'MG Rover discount spares' and he said the latest polymer gaskets are superior to the original ones, so I decided to fit that. In 4 years it hasn't let me down and I've done a lot of miles. Nevertheless, what ever gasket you use, it is a great engine and in my experience not as fragile as its reputation would make you think. I believe it was the later expanded 1.8 engines that suffer head gasket problems not the original, lower powered 1.4 versions. Also it needs to be done properly and I suspect many garages might have not taken the care that it needed when fitting them. Anyway, it is a great engine and I love driving it, shame Rover is no longer making them. 👍😊

@@johnbrereton5229 Agreed

A metallic ticking is fairly common as the hydraulic tappets takes a while to pump back up to normal height with oil flow and pressure. If they take a long time or never go away then an oil way has got blocked on the cam carrier block due to too much sealant being used, usually. It may go away after a good drive, or it may need that cam carrier seal to be redone. If the idle is varying then it may help if you briefly very quickly press the throttle all the way to the floor while the engine is running, this resets the idle control valve. If that doesn’t help it may mean the mixture strength is off due to an air leak into the inlet manifold or an injector problem. Battery size won’t make any difference.

Well done, thanks for the comments.

A bird eye view wouldn’t show much it’s hidden under stuff

@@comeinhandynow i pointed out the water pump from the top....the car is broken down outside my home but its not my car....water pissing out....problem is with utube....cant find the exact engine...every mini video i load up....wrong...wrong wrong.....engine....the one outside has the stupid resevior at the back and a top on the thermostat housing.......whhich one do you put the water in? how come the resevior tank level not move atall.....ive never woeked on a mini...so im trying to help the person out,,,,,at tghis rate im going to send him to a garage.....because i cant find a video on how to do water pump on that engine....non turbo 1.y6 04 plate? thanks

@@comeinhandynow i know what you mean but if i said to someone its next to the crank........whats a crank? lol.....plus one person removes the wheel and next video guy has the bumper off......my oversall advice to people is dont follow utubers....mini im looking at water pump is at the front to the left..or o/s/f

@@lawtonify This is probably the sort of job for more experienced DIYers. Ones that know what a crank is. There are different ways and preferences for doing this job, so some take the bumper off for more access, some like me prefer to just struggle in the available space without bumper removal. YT offers a lot more tips and options than just a workshop manual that uses the long winded way.

@@lawtonify Sounds like the owner needs to get someone used to minis and has done this job before. You could look up the mini history on wikipedia and get the engine name for that year, then search on YT for water pump change xxx. I just did a google search “2004 mini cooper s water pump replacement” and a few get listed, hope one helps.

Thanks

So I believe the earlier joints had cogs for the abs sensor to give the magnetic pickup. The later ones had the magnetic pattern embedded in the joint so no visible cogs. You need to have the same joint as was fitted originally, so you may have to return it in order to get the correct part. Then if you think the sensor has got damaged, replace that. The sensor is positioned very close to the joint surface in order to pick up the magnetic signal, but obviously not touching to create wear.

@@comeinhandynow you mean the magnetic signal is embedded on the CV joint - not the inner side of the bearing ? It looks the same as yours - do yours work the same way and of so, which part if you know ? I'm over in Sweden so its difficult! Appreciated! Thanks for the reply ! 🍷😏

@@arnodafe yes i believe it must be embedded where the cog was on the old style one. It must be opposite the sensor. Look on ebay that is the same as yours: www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1311&_nkw=land+rover+freelander+1+driveshaft&_sacat=0&LH_CAds=&_udlo=&_fosrp=1&_fpos=&_odkw=Nitrile+rubber+gloves&_osacat=&_sop=12&_ex_kw=&_fspt=1&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udhi=&_sadis=

@@arnodafe here is also a video on changing the whole driveshaft. The video description section on that video has some buying links that include the driveshafts, assuming they still work. ruclips.net/video/DWtYS7PtDu4/видео.htmlsi=WVSU-pUC40JPfQzH

@@comeinhandynowthanks again for your time and help - its hard to know which one is correct ...

The desiccant inside the spacer bar is saturated with water, you would have to dry it out in an oven, replace it (messy as they are fine beads inside the spacer) or replace the spacer (difficult to get hold of small volumes). You also try putting the old spacer inside a very small room with a dehumidifier on max for a day or two.

Thanks!

Excellent, well done.

That’s a good job then, well done.

If it is the microswitch in the handle not working then follow this video. If it’s the solenoid motor not operating the lock then you have to remove the inside panel from inside the car to get to the lock unit, which I mention briefly in the video.

That is a good point and for many years I thought like you are thinking that the reassembling order should be the same as disassembly..However after years of seeing the bead move out later all over the place, I realised that the reason and putting the bead in first is the solution and it works. Give the window a push into the frame to help compress the rubber. It works and the outer bead stays in place!

@@comeinhandynow thank you, it was worth asking and you gave the confident answer i was hoping for.

Well done for fixing yours. Nice money saver.

Links are in the video description section. As here: Here is the upgraded part: Amazon UK: amzn.to/3mdgUJP Amazon USA: amzn.to/2U243AF

Thanks and great to see more people fixing things.

I wouldn’t recommend it

@@comeinhandynow bit late 😂 I did it on bottom corner and it was alright

Maybe but that one time you forget to run it on your phone will catch you out. This unit runs automatically everytime the car moves.

Cheers, good luck.

@@comeinhandynow Thanks! The main quest will be replacing missing or terribly wrong placed bolts 😂Discovered wrong bolts at the air filter housing and missing bolts at some piping parallel to the starter. Cheers mate! 🍻

Been uploading a short of my beloved 'Goldfinger'

Did it snap or just detach from it’s mounting? Dismantling of the oven probably required to fix or replace the part.

Thanks

Hello, I would like to ask, I am from the Czech Republic and I have a freelander 1.8 version 18k4f from 2004 and I bought this car and I am losing water in a big way, I thought that these defects were solved only this year after the facelift, do you know if there was already a reinforced oil ladder on these engines and they glue the N series seals?

To be honest I am not sure if that year has those improvements. Try and be sure where the water is being lost. It could be the water pump leaking which is easier to fix, or a radiator leak, or a hose. If it is the head gasket there should be a loss of compression on a cylinder (use a compression tester) and probably steam / smoke from the exhaust.

there is no water flowing anywhere on the side or under the car and I lose a lot of water and the exhaust smokes not much, but it smokes when I bought the car, a head gasket was done before, including the alignment of the head, the scales were not sunken, I am afraid that the block or head is cracked

@@radimadamovky-sl4qd A cracked head or block is unlikely. To check if the water is going into the combustion chamber, buy a cylinder compression tester (not expensive) and test each cylinder for the compression value, with all of the spark plugs out. If water is getting into the combustion chamber then one of the reading will be lower than the others. Also often you can get oil mixing with the water or water in the oil so look for that. If the head gasket was recently changed it is probable that it wasn't done properly.

Děkuji za pomoc

Cheers. Well done

Thanks

Thank you!!

Covered on another video of mine, but also not such a regular item compared to the rest. See ruclips.net/video/BPHUbgBAF_I/видео.html

@@comeinhandynow Hi there, Yes only seen it later.. People don't change them on the td4 as it's awkward.. and the crankcase breathers another thats never changed... Good vid tho' : )

@@madmechanic7641 Cheers. Yes crankcase filter - an important one to upgrade ruclips.net/video/FQwZrjGUN-o/видео.html

You should clear the warning light shown in my other video on that using software and a connection to the obd2 port. It may possibly clear eventually after this fix, but may not and better to clear it yourself

It’s the yellow can and I add 10% of old engine oil for a bit more softness and ability to soak in.

Cheers

I am assuming it is the TD4 diesel engine. Get yourself an OBD2 module and s/w on your phone and read the engine temperature, that should tell you if the engine temperature sensor is working and what temperature the engine actually is. If you really can’t find any leaks (look for where water might have evaporated as well) and it consistently uses a lot of water then it would be a head gasket leak inside the engine. Check if it is smoking white smoke/steam at the tailpipe.

Yes diesel, model year 2000, I hope it's not a problem with the head gasket, or a leak, there are no traces of oil in the expansion tank. the loss of water is minimal, I add a glass of liquid every 100 km. with the fans on when it gets to temperature now it's even a little less. thanks I will check with OBD2. thanks very much

Cheers

Thanks, enjoy the car, I know I do. If you haven’t already done so, look into getting the cheap electricity, 7.5p/kwh on octopus go intelligent. A 4x saving.

You could try but I have a feeling that the problem with other methods is that after a while the car would reapply the parking brake.

Thanks!

No the adhesive is a conductive type on the tape I bought. This can be tested with a multimeter.

Thanks. No more problems

Thanks for your message! I did the work, and today I tested, all ok for now. Was little bit difficult to understand how to stick springs inside, but after close the door lock I have putted inside the 2 springs. Thanks you again. Simone

@@simonepitzalis3545 Great, well done!